Extended Range Dulcimer
Instruments- discuss specific features, luthiers, instrument problems & questions
Well, now that is very interesting, indeed!
Well, now that is very interesting, indeed!
@Dusty, there are 3 octaves across all three strings, 0-6 on the bass then 0-14 [DAd] in the melody [and various combos using the middle string]. Three on one string is something else, probably huge to be usable.
@Skip, you are correct that the way most luthiers make their dulcimers, a longer VSL just means larger spaces in between fret wire, for the fretboard is usually fixed at a little more than two octaves (most have 17, 18, or 19 frets). However, there is no reason that has to be the case. A dulcimer with a long enough VSL could be configured for 3 full, usable octaves.
I personally would have no use for such a dulcimer, but it is theoretically possible to build one.
This is an example of how different our approaches to playing and therefore our design preferences can be. One reason I love my McCafferty dulcimer is that it has only 14 frets but an extended strum hollow, allowing the right hand a more comfortable angle and more room to play. I also had the luthier bring the strings closer together for me, for I find it easier to play fast when the strings are closer together. And the 25" scale length means I can fret chords with ease.
@Barnjam clearly has different needs than I. He is seeking a dulcimer with a longer VSL to accommodate an extra octave and greater space between the strings to accommodate his large hands.
I forgot to say you would need 17 frets, not counting 1/2 frets to get 2 octaves A [low] to D [high] on one string.
I've found the experts! I'm impressed with all the good ideas and knowledge amongst you. I find this musical journey to be quite fascinating. There are so many factors that can affect the music we play.
I'm a bit confused by all of this. Fourteen frets is two diatonic octaves, D to D or A to A or whatever, regardless of the VSL. A longer VSL [fretboard] just increases the distance between frets. It doesn't 'add' any any notes. A wider fretboard increases space between strings, but so can adjusting the middle string closer to the bass string. My recommendation would be to get something with a long VSL and adjust the string spacing between the middle and bass string. A nut set up for single or double melody strings has a wider space between these two strings built in [usually about 1/8"] by removing the inner melody string.
@barnjam ...remember you don't 'have to' play in the key of D, either. And having a chromatic means you don't have to worry about the usual diatonic 'gaps' in the fretboard when choosing your tunings and keys.
The "stringjoy string tension calculator" says that a 35" VSL tuned to D4 with a 0.007 gauge string (lowest Ive seen in an ernie ball pack) will have ~13 lb of tension.
Yikes. I once started using .009 strings to tune to dulcimer high D (D4) on a 28" scale. The strings tuned to the note ok, but they were so thin that they broke all too often often while playing. So I went back to using .010 for my melody strings to tune to high D. But i can't even imagine doing that with a 35" scale length (!) and a .007 string.
Does that "Stringjoy" Tension Calculator tell you when one of its suggestions would likely result in a string that breaks, or a string that is too slack? I doubt it includes such useful info. I suspect that like any non-human, all it will inform you of is what numbers are correct for the calculation. BUT... if anyone could actually do that experiment Nate, it would be YOU!
More good information to consider. I think some combination of DAA tuning with a wider fretboard would be the best solution, without getting into expensive custom builds. I appreciate your time and knowledge on this.
Strumelia could you please elaborate on that?
The "stringjoy string tension calculator" says that a 35" VSL tuned to D4 with a 0.007 gauge string (lowest Ive seen in an ernie ball pack) will have ~13 lb of tension.
Another factor when making the fretboard longer and longer is that, depending on what notes you want to tune the strings to, you will have to choose string gauges that will enable you to tune to those notes on that length of fretboard. The trick is that although you'll have a range of choices by choosing various gauges, the choices are not unlimited as to how heavy(low) and how thin(high) you can go for a particular length of fretboard and choice of open string note. You can't for example tune to a dulcimer high D on a fretboard that is 35" long... the required string would be so thin it would snap under tension long before being tuned to high d. The opposite is true as well (trying to tune to very low notes on a very short fretboard... the required string would be impossibly fat and slack).
Yes, I do prefer to only play on the melody string although I have fun playing melody on the bass string sometimes. I have a chromatic Weissenborn, and I enjoy it, but it forces me to think more. My diatonic dulcimers are fun to play because my precision can be lower, with less frets. Thanks Nate. All great ideas.
I think an important question is: do you prefer to only play on the melody string, or would you prefer to be able to fret all three strings?
If you're only fretting the melody string out of compromise, then a wider fretboard could solve your problem.
A dulcimer does not have all the frets of the chromatic scale, which is why the major scale must start on either the open string for DAd (1-5-8) or the 3rd fret for DAA (1-5-5) if you want to have all the notes in the major scale. For this reason, if you wanted to tune the melody string lower than A and still get all the notes of the D major scale, you would have to add extra frets. For example, if you tuned the instrument DAG, there would be no fret for C#, unless you add a 3.5 fret. You could potentially set the fret layout to allow your melody string to be tuned to any note, though it would look strange for some. Or with a chromatic instrument, you could just tune it any old way and always have all the needed frets for your D major scale.
It's possible to tune the melody string lower and add extra frets, but could lead to it's own problems, like if you wanted to play melody on the bass string, your melody string would no longer be a harmonious drone to accompany it.
I see that the dulcimer you showed a photo of has two full octaves of frets plus 3 frets of the third octave. If you have large fingers, it will definitely be difficult to try to fret in those teeny tiny spaces, and if you add more frets to the high end, the gaps between them only get smaller.
The longer the VSL, the more space you'll have between frets in that third octave, but that can only help so much.
Happy to hear everything worked out for you.
That makes perfect sense. The open string note is the lowest a string can be. I'm overthinking it for sure. The solution then is to tune in DAA and add more frets to the upper neck. A larger dulcimer body with a longer neck and wider fretboard would help make the spaces. THANK YOU!
Strumelia, your suggestion of arching the fingers is excellent, and I will try to improve on that.
I wrote a blog post on the angling of our fretting fingers that elaborates on that subject a little more- you might find something helpful in it:
https://dulcimer-noter-drone.blogspot.com/2012/07/lazy-fingers.html
Truthfully, I might be misunderstanding your request or your concept here. The bottom line though is that on any string, you cannot play notes lower than that particular string is tuned to... no matter how long the neck is or how many additional frets you put on.
Sorry....couldn't help myself....
Mike, I'm glad to hear that you have your dulcimer playing well again and happy that we were helpful. Enjoy playing both of your dulcimers.
Ken
"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."
Thanks for the responses, all. John, that "Uncle Eddie" is insanely cool. That's a great suggestion on the long neck banjo. I've reached out to John Knopf with these questions. Dusty, agreed and that is exactly what my Milford Blevins model has (in order to accommodate 8 strings). Strumelia, your suggestion of arching the fingers is excellent, and I will try to improve on that. Regarding your questions: 1) Yes, on both a longer and wider fretboard for finger space and tonal range 2) Yes, I'd like to play notes that dip below the "home" note of D on the melody string. I did try DAA tuning and I enjoyed the ability to hit those lower notes, but I was then limited on the higher octave. I'm looking for both sides of the spectrum.
My primary concert dulcimers are modified to be loud. Both my converted guitar/dulcimer, Milford B. model, and J. McAnulty Weissenborn are very resonant even without an amp. I've added drop A & D strings for deep bass and extra resonance. I use Fender heavy triangle picks and higher gauge strings as I tend to strum and pick aggressively. I've attached a few pics to help illustrate the set-ups.
I'm not at all surprised.
All instruments need to be properly "set up," and this is often left to the retail seller. Amateur builders often don't know how to do the simple adjustments. Many of the string instruments in charity stores are "throwaways" that people got as a gift or as so-called bargains which only need a proper set-up.
One added thing I'd like to just check on-
you say you have trouble with bumping into other strings when you fret and slide with your "large hands", yet your dulcimer has a larger than usual fretboard already.
Are you fretting with the bony TIPS of your fingers, with your hand arched up over the strings, or are you fretting with the fatty PADS of your fingers, with your hand held more horizontally as though you are typing on a laptop? Fretting with te very tips of the fingers can make all the difference in the world when it comes to getting clean sound and not bumping into other strings or muffling your own notes while cutting off resonating notes.
I'm a little confused here and i have questions. You say you like to play the melody mostly all on your melody string while occasionally plucking the middle string, yet you also say you like to play melody on the lower string.
Are you simply wanting a longer and wider fretboard, and will continue to tune to DAd and play in the key of D?...are you just seeking extra space for your large fingers?
OR... are you wanting to play notes that dip below the 'home' note of D on your melody string, as in tuning to DAA for example?
From your question, I'm not really sure of your goal.
I got home yesterday and had a burst of energy and filed down the string slots on my dulcimer "nut!". It was a complete success! I started with the middle A string since that was the one that was the most off and then did the others. My dulcimer sounds great now!
 The only thing I forgot to do was to put a little bit of graphite in each slot, but I can do that anytime. I want to thank all of you for the help you gave me with this. If I have any other questions or issues with my dulcimers I know where to come!
Another possibility would be a wider fretboard with more space in between strings. Just a thought.
Sending a "long vsl" chart borrowed from Folkcraft...31 3/8 VSL. Is this what you envision? It would take some time to do the math on string gauge etc....To think of what that length looks like, picture a Pete Seger long neck banjo. All you have to do is remove the resonator and slap the remains on an hourglass body....voila!
This other fella on FOTMD may be able to help....looks like he builds some big honkin' dulcimores....
This is a question regarding dulcimer build limitations. Is it possible to make an extended range dulcimer? I am envisioning a longer fretboard that would allow for several more frets on the lower end. This would allow the player to stay on the melody string for the low and high octave, without crossing over to the middle string, in DAD tuning.
I am a player with large hands, which makes it difficult to play the middle string without hitting other strings. So far, the Milford Blevins Dulcimer has the largest fretboard I’ve used. It is both wider and longer than a standard dulcimer. For me, that means my fat fingers have plenty of space to slide. I wish it were a tad longer so that I could get the best of DAA and DAD tuning, allowing me to walk down the fretboard on the melody string alone. I play melody exclusively on the first D string, with an occasional pluck of the open A middle string. The middle and lower strings I use for droning rhythms, or to play bass melody.
Thank you for any responses.
Mike
It seems fine now. Thank you. I appreciate it.
I am not familiar with dulcimers made by James Goodall. He seems to have a good following in the guitar world. It appears that his son Luke has taken over the guitar business and continues to build guitars in Sparta, TN. My guess is that any mountain dulcimers he made were from the beginning of his career as a luthier.
Ken
"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."
BTW the whole problem was the size of the images- that was also causing the text to stretch in order to be the same width as the giant pictures. Once i downsized the pix, the text fixed itself.
I reduced the photo sizes and deleted the additional threads... see if it's ok now:
https://fotmd.com/forums/forum/for-saleinstruments-music-items-cds-wanted-to-buy/48199/john-stockard-dulcimer-for-sale
(you may have to refresh your browser page to see the new version)
It also posted 3 time. Don't know how yo delete.
I tried. It posted but the photos are too large and the text is stretched out. Don't know how to fix it.
Many years ago I contacted John Stockard about building me a dulcimer. He said he wasn't building anymore, but would be willing to sell me one of his personal instruments. I bought it. It arrived in excellent condition. It is still in excellent condition. It has never left my home. John called it his concert model. It is 38" long. Bouts are 6 3/4" and 8 1/4". Beautiful full and balanced tone with excellent sustain. It was built in 2004 and was build #193. It came with a soft case that appears to be homade. John was know for his excellent craftsmanship and attention to detail. To find one for sale is quite rare. I am asking $2000 or best offer. Free shipping to the lower 48.
@old-dawg, what have you tried? Go to this discussion to learn how to start a new Forum Discussion and then go to the For Sale Forum and post your listing.
Trying to list a dulcimer for sale. No luck. Need help
That's an interesting response.In the 80's electronic tuners took over.I would use them when I was playing in a band then go aside to"make it sound right"...(fiddle,guitar)...I've never understood "tempered scales",being an ear player nor a scientist,laugh....
Being new to MDs, you need to be aware that some-many vintage dulcimers have the frets located using non-equal temperaments. Those will sound good but will not sound right combined with modern equal temperament tuned instruments. You will need to know the temperament to properly tune them using an electronic tuner.
"Could they have purposely installed an actual nut to bypass the zero fret?"
Yes. The problem with that is the locations of each of the other frets is based on calculations using the VSL [Virtual String Length] from the center of the zero fret to the nut side of the saddle.
I am looking into getting another vintage dulcimer and having just dived into this instrument, I am overwhelmed by the number of custom-made models that are out there. I am looking at this model made in the 1970's by somebody in San Diego named James Goodall. From what I could gather online, he also made guitars and maybe banjos! Any of you out there familiar with him or own a dulcimer made by him??
We had a family emergency so I will not be able to do anything with this thing until next week, but all of this is good information! I also remembered that I have a Dremel tool that may come in handy although the manual hand files may be a little gentler on the wood and plastic. I will agree with some of you that somebody has worked or modded this dulcimer. Could they have purposely installed an actual nut to bypass the zero fret? I also did not notice that the saddle also looks like it has been altered. Right now, I have the one that came with it removed and have a bone one made for a guitar in its place. I have sanded it down to lower the string action and I have a few of them in case I mess it up! I was going to sand the original one but of course, do not have a spare. One way or another I will get this instrument fixed up. Thanks again for all the help!